Our track was dry and dusty, and the flies – oh, the flies! - were unrelenting in their quest for blood. The morning march was carried out in a silence reinforced by a lack of sugar in the blood later returned through the medium of porridge eaten in drizzle at the side of the road.īy midday the sun bore down with a vengeance as it would for weeks to come. We slept, arose, packed and walked again. It will not be as good as a restaurant meal and it will be not be as comfortable as eating at home but it will be better than both.Īs I sit now in my dressing gown, typing away at my computer, I am filled with nostalgia for the feel of a fresh sleeping bag and the yellow hue of our tent overhead. It is hard to convey the joy to be found in the simplicity of cooking your own dinner on a fold-away stove, sheltered in the porch of a tent. The wind blew and the flysheet went taut. A wide clearing presented itself and we pitched our tiny tent in the middle of it. Sunset came early on that first day and there was little doubt that we both would have kept walking if enthusiasm made the decision rather than daylight. We had a stiff marching schedule for the next 48 hours if we wanted to reach the next ferry on time: close to 100km. It was clear too that nerves underlay our excitement. We talked excitedly about how good it felt for our progress to be once more determined by our own efforts and not by transport schedules or the good will of strangers. It had taken three planes, four buses, one boat and a series of long waits for hitch-hikes over several days to get here. Towelled down we extended our walking poles, shouldered our heavy packs and started walking. Our next taste of seawater would come from the Argentinian Atlantic. The electrifying tingle of cold salt water rippled up my body and lifted my cheeks into a smile. Reluctantly we stripped to our underwear, clambered over the rocks and fell gracelessly into the sea. Puffed up clouds filled the sky and a cold breeze set an ominous tone for the beginning of our journey. The ferry departed leaving us alone at the roadside.
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